How To Fix Your Change Pro Controller’s D-Pad

Over the last year, the Nintendo Switch has actually developed a remarkable collection of 2D side-scrollers and classic game video games. Those games rely greatly the D-Pad, and the D-Pad on the Change Pro Controller can be frustratingly undependable. Last weekend I fixed mine, and you can, too.I have actually been obsessively playing Hollow Knight over the last few weeks. It's a difficult 2D side-scrolling video game with fine-tuned controls that need exact controller inputs. Each struck versus an enemy employer is essential, and each blow you suffer can be disastrous. I started playing the game while traveling, which meant using the Joy-Con instead of my Pro Controller. I got used to the Joy-Con's button-based D-Pad and was doing fine. When I got house and plugged in my Pro Controller, I anticipated I 'd do even better, thanks to the fact that the Pro Controller has an actual cross-shaped D-Pad and not four specific buttons. Rather, I found I was doing worse.Precisely assaulting down is especially

essential in Hollow Knight.In Hollow Knight, the Knight can assault in among the four main directions, depending on which way you're pressing. You cannot do diagonal attacks, makings the video game especially well-suited to playing with the D-Pad rather of a thumbstick. However, when I plugged in the Pro Controller, I observed during challenging employer fights that in some cases the Knight would swing up rather of right, in spite of the truth that I made sure I had pushed right. I was dozens of hours into the game and was attuned to the controls, makinged it simpler to observe that they weren't doing exactly what I desired. Once again it occurred, and once again. Ultimately I made sure: my D-Pad was acting up.I did a little Googling and instantly discovered that not just is this a known problem, it's widespread. Individuals in nearly every thread< a href= target =_ blank rel=noopener > about the Pro Controller talked about how when you press left and right on the D-Pad, it periodically registers an "up" press. It's less clear whether newer Pro Controllers have the very same issue, and equally uncertain whether sending it into Nintendo for repairs actually yields a good result. I asked Nintendo if it might clarify whether the concern had actually been dealt with on more recent Pro Controllers, but the company was unable to obtain me an action in time for publication.What is clear is that a lot of Pro Controllers, like mine, have irregular D-Pads. I headed into the Change's "Test Input Gadgets" energy and pushed left and right a lot on my Pro Controller D-Pad. Here's what I got:

Okay, so it's a problem. Is there a way to repair it? After looking around, I found a variety of people mentioning a fix that requires taking apart the controller and applying plain old clear tape to the contacts on the board. Then I watched the below video from P-Switch on YouTube, which helpfully goes through every action of taking apart the controller and making the modifications.I had never ever opened

up a game controller in the past, and while I'm comfortable enough working on my video gaming PC, have constantly shied away from breaking open pre-built customer electronics. I chose that in the interest of testing the repair, and because Nintendo had sent me this Pro Controller free of charge back when I reviewed the Switch, that I would offer it a shot. An essential disclaimer: If you don't feel comfortable doing this, do not do it! I didn't believe it was all that challenging, however it would definitely be possible to completely screw up your costly controller and be shit out of luck. As always I motivate bravery, however only if you're willing to take on the risk.This is what my work area appeared like when I had taken apart everything.I laid out my tools-- a few little Phillips head screwdrivers

, a pair of scissors, a set of needle-nose pliers, and an excellent bright light

-- and got to work. The Change came apart pretty quickly, for the a lot of part. Here are the steps I followed, as detailed in the P-Switch video: Remove the grips. (2 screws)Loosen the translucent plastic on the underside.(4 silver screws)Get rid of the battery.Unscrew the 2 halves of the controller.(5 screws)

  1. Unclip the ribbon cable television from the bottom half.Unscrew the D-Pad sensor board from the top of the controller.( 4 screws
  2. )Apply tape to sensing units and under D-Pad. Reassemble.If you're thinking about attempting this, I advise following in addition to the video. The diciest part of the whole operation was disconnecting the ribbon cable that links the controller's 2 boards and links the buttons and sticks to the rest
  3. of the controller.

(Note: I am not an electrical engineer and have no idea the terms for all these things. )With all the parts removed, it was time to apply the tape. I did it just as defined in the video: Four thin pieces of clear Scotch tape(or whatever brand name you have lying around )over the outside half of the contacts, and a four-folded nub of tape positioned in the center of the D-Pad cradle

, to raise it up ever so slightly. Some people state they get excellent outcomes just by putting the four pieces of tape on the contacts with no extra folded tape under the D-Pad, but I took P-Switch's word for it that raising the pad a bit would help.The 4 contact points, with their brand-new tape hats.Unfortunately, P-Switch's video doesn't reveal reassembly, and I ran into some difficulty re-connecting the ribbon cable television. The first time I reassembled the controller, it would not switch on at all. I took it apart and re-seated the ribbon cable television, and the next time, it switched on, but the buttons were absolutely reorganized.

The D-Pad was triggering face-button inputs, and other buttons did nothing at all. I figured I need to have seated the ribbon controller improperly, so I pulled it out, seated it once again, and checked one last time ... and it worked! Lesson found out: The ribbon cable port has a lot of little contact points on the bottom, and those contact points have to specifically line up with the corresponding contact points on the board.It's been a couple of days since I took my Pro Controller apart, and the D-Pad is extremely enhanced. Here were my outcomes when doing the very same input test I did prior to I began: Perfect reaction across the board. I've seen that the D-Pad is everso somewhat less responsive, so occasionally if I feather a light tap to the left or the right, the input will not register.

I can't state whether that was taking place before, however it's not a substantial offer to me. I also gather that this modification can make some combating game moves harder to pull off; I'm no Street Fighter professional but I was still able to get Ryu to do both a Hadouken and a Shoryuken in Street Fighter II Ultra. If you're a big combating game gamer and are thinking about attempting this mod, bear that in mind.For me, however, it's been a great fix for platformers, particularly demanding ones like I've been playing. More than that, it was an interesting obstacle that, like the very first time I< a href= rel =nofollow > constructed my own video gaming PC, has actually significantly increased

my self-confidence when it pertains to taking apart and fixing my own electronics. The errors I made re-seating the ribbon cable were really the most informing part of the procedure, both due to the fact that they reminded me as soon as again that hardware failure can typically be easily repaired, and since they de-mystified the question of what's going on under the hood of a controller.The most essential thing is that I not am at a downside when playing Hollow Knight on the huge screen. Surely that suggests that now I'll be able to beat The Brilliance with no trouble? ...?